"We have destroyed more of our ancient woodlands in the past forty years than our ancestors managed to wipe out in the previous four hundred." (Chris Baines). Add to this the wholesale destruction of thousands of miles of hedgerows and almost at a stroke not only have numerous species been rendered 'homeless', but the corridors to safe havens have been obliterated.

Fortunately there are other corridors all leading to and connecting urban areas. It should be possible to bring the country to the town or city quite easily by either modifying or adapting the existing 'open spaces' - parks etc., or by creating new habitats. The first requires 'political pressure' to be applied to local authorities, the second you can do yourself!

Woodlands consist of several layers of plants forming canopies under which the right climatic conditions for the layer underneath are created. At its simplest there are three layers formed by trees, shrubs and flowering plants.

Tree layer. It is possible to grow trees even in the smallest garden Some such as Oak or Beech are too big and so are not suitable, but others such as Silver Birch will grow quite comfortably. The method to use is simple:-

1. If you are planting several trees, set them three metres apart. This will allow space to plant the shrub layer, but be close enough to form a satisfactory canopy in a few years.
2. Choose trees which have good fibrous root systems, have not had the central leader or growing tip removed and which are less than two metres tall.
3. Plant in either late autumn or early spring.
4. Do not be tempted to use chemical controls, let the forces of nature do the job for you and in this way you will be able to help to restore endangered habitats.

Shrub layer. These are the producers of nectar, fruits and seed which will attract increasing numbers and varieties of specie to your garden as well as providing colour throughout the year. Plant them a metre apart.

Plant layer. Shade loving/tolerant plants from the ground hugging wild strawberry to the stately foxglove

1. It may take a couple of years before conditions are right for the plants. If you are prepared to wait you will need to suppress any weeds. This can be done by covering the soil with a purpose made ground-cover fabric or with a mulch of rough cut ( 75 - 100mm ) tree bark. This latter has the advantage of providing a habitat for insects etc., an essential element for the balance necessary for a successful woodland edge.
2. You can plant some wildflower plugs or bulbs which bloom in the spring, or those plants which are shade tolerant and not only provide 'instant colour', but will usually spread vigorously ( sometimes too vigorously! ).

Perhaps a Woodland edge isn't appropriate, but perhaps a scaled down version - a hedge - to hide or replace a rickety fence maybe. Modern hedge plants tend to be of introduced species, which though effective are almost barren as far as support for other wild life is concerned. The native shrubs which have been used for generations provide nectar, fruit and seed as well as shelter for many birds and insects. And a practical consideration, it's not as easy to hop over a dense thorny hedge as over a wooden fence!

So how do you go about growing a mixed wild species hedge?

1. Choose a mixture of 75% hawthorn, 15% field maple, and 2% each of wild privet and other suitable shrubs.
2. It will take 5 shrubs per metre for a hedge with a single row of plants, 6 shrubs per metre for a double row of plants.
3. Plant two year old seedlings, not vertically, but at an angle of forty-five degrees so that they slope along the line of the hedge.
4. The shrubs should be spaced 20cm apart for a single row hedge. For a double row hedge there should be a 15 - 20cm gap between the rows and the shrubs should be staggered 35cm apart.
   
5. Cut off the side shoots and a third of the top of the plant so that a dense base is formed within a year.
6. Mulch both sides and between rows with ground cover fabric or fleece.